You see more washings hanging from windows of people's houses....
Also see more small alleyways ... a bit like Edinburgh but sunny without millions of tourists....
You can still see a bit of castle when you look up ...
We decided to go down a small alleyways. Next thing we heard what sounded like fado-like music and assumed that there was some kind of pub or snack bar frequented by locals, after all the district is meant to be the birthplace of fado music. It however turned out to be just a normal house where its owner was listening to some Portuguese music playing loudly to be heard around the neighbourhood.
We continued on the alleyways and now saw pictures and drawings of fado singers on the walls.
 |
| Traditional fado singer, Maria Ivone [1921] grew up and lived at No.1 Beco dos Tres Engenhos in Mouraria |
I was looking at these pictures when my husband noticed that there were some people eating inside of unassuming premises and we could hear some clinking cutleries. At first we just wondered if this was someone's house and the family was having lunch at home. There was no sign, no menu on the wall or no name ... nothing.... is it restaurant or someone's house ...?
It turned out that it is a proper restaurant after all. It is called Restaurant Ze da Mouraria situated at Rua Joao Outeiro 24 in Mourara district near Martim Moniz Square.
We went inside. The place was not that big and packed with tables. There were only few tables occupied as it was still slightly early for lunch. We had no idea what to expect but decided to try this restaurant.
Menus was all in Portuguese and I could only work out grilled salmon. Luckly the waitress realised that we could not read the menu, she brought an English menu for us.
She recommended us to try cuttlefish with garlic off the menu, pointing out to a huge steel bowl of dish that a couple sitting at the corner was eating. The price is 16.50 Euro, to which we asked if it is the price for one or two to share. She said it's for two people. Wow, that's a very good price.... and it looked interesting so we went by her suggestion.
Whilst waiting for our order, we ate some breads, which were really good, along with olives.
Yes, that's another thing - breads are really good in Portugal. Why can we not get breads like this in UK? I then just remembered about what I have recently heard about bread crisis in Paris. Apparently the law has changed to allow bakers to be able to take summer holidays anytime they want, thus many of Paris bakers taking holidays around the same time as they don't consult each other to ensure some of them open whilst others are on holidays. There are many bakeries closed for holidays, leaving many Parisians breadless that has caused much outcry, especially they would not go to supermarket to buy breads as they are so used to eating artisan breads made by local bakers. Wow, this would never happen in the UK!
Anyway, whilst we were enjoying our breads, more customers were arriving occupying empty tables. We noticed that all we heard was Portuguese around us and they were all ordering cuttlefish. It looked like a good sign.
And then, our order arrived! Huge... and this is only 16.50 Euro, equivalent to approximately £12!!!
This could feed 3 - 4 people!
There were cuttlefish, potatoes, olive oil, garlic and lots of coriander in the bowl. We notice that coriander seems to be used quite a lot in Portuguese cooking. Anyway, this dish was really tasty and great with breads to mop up the sauce, just excellent!
There were lots in the huge steel bowl, we were struggling but managed to finish all in the end (or my husband did, hahaha....)
By this time, there were people (who looked like office workers out for lunch) queuing outside waiting for their tables. The place looks really popular with locals... no wonder why there is no name, no sign or menu outside as there is no need - people just come to them. Good food for good price.
So we had breads and olives, cuttlefish in the huge steel bowl, 2 small bottle of beer and 2 coffees (bica) and this all costed us 24.50 euro only or equivalent to £18!!! This is just marvellous!
Later on I checked their reviews on TripAdvisor; the restaurant has very good feedback, and I cannot agree more. This place is a sort of hidden gem, away from tourist trap restaurants, serving really good and comfort traditional Portuguese dishes at affordable price in one of the old parts of Lisbon where even the guidebook would not spend much time writing about.
After this, we walked back to the town centre, which was not that far after all. I hope there will not be too many tourists going to this restaurant, otherwise it would not remain the same, yet I have an audacity to say this as I AM a tourist too.
That's all forks!
